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In the time it takes to
watch a football match, we crossed the Irish Sea on a super fast ferry
from Anglesey to Dun Laoghaire. A refreshing sea breeze provided ideal
conditions for watching the dainty flight of Little Terns, with black
tipped bright yellow beaks, ferrying sand eels into their breeding colony
at Kilcoole. By now the young have fledged and chase their parents eagerly
for food. Nearby, all three British hirundines (Swallow, House and Sand
Martins) are catching flies, with plenty of Curlews in the damp rough
pastures. Offshore, immaculate brilliant white Gannets are quickly spotted
and become an almost daily sighting.
After a night in our own
'private' lodge in the wonderful Wicklow Mountains, we visited the nearby
ancient monastic site at Glendalough, with its impressive 103 foot round
tower, and posing Spotted Flycatcher. A walk along the tranquil wooded
valley in a beautiful setting beside two picturesque lakes produced a
naked 'dipper', singing Goldcrests and Coal Tits and nice scope views of
male Siskin and Reed Bunting and grazing Sika Deer. As the trail ascended
increasingly rugged scenery, ideal for Ring Ouzel, a sudden squall forced
us back without the upland thrush.
After a picnic lunch, we
headed south to County Wexford, arriving in time for a walk along the
shore at Carne Rocks. With the late afternoon sun behind us, we had
perfect light for a comparison of Common and Arctic Terns, obligingly
perched side by side at close range. The Arctic Tern has lighter grey
primaries but darker grey underparts, markedly shorter deeper red legs and
a deeper red beak without the black tip of the Common Tern. Simple, once
you get your eye in. This was also a good vantage for larger Sandwich
Terns with their yellow tipped black beaks as well as a variety of waders
at close range including Ringed Plover, Common Sandpiper, Redshank,
Bar-tailed Godwit and Whimbrel, plus loads of Turnstone, Sanderling and
Dunlin still in breeding plumage.
Porridge with a dash of
whiskey and cream and a full Irish at Killiane Castle are the perfect
start to a day's birding in rural County Wexford. Today we had the added
bonus of glorious sunny weather for our boat trip to Great Saltee Island,
one of the highlights of the tour. After a calm crossing and a smooth
amphibious landing we spotted Rock Pipits on the shore while Sedge
Warblers sang in the bracken. Exploring this marvelous island, we were
entertained by Kestrel, Peregrine, Chough and the rather surprising sight
of three pairs of brown boobies of the eastern European race, basking in
the warm sunshine! Freshly polished scopes also gave nice views of
Puffins, Razorbills, Guillemots and Kittiwakes in their thousands, while
2,000 plus pairs of croaking Gannets made a superb backdrop for lunch on
the cliffs. Back in Kilmore Quay, Grey Seals swam in the harbour, almost
within stroking distance of the boats. What a fabulous day that was,
celebrated with a pint of the black stuff at The Hideout Inn once back on
dry land.
Wandering through the
pinewoods of the Raven Point nature reserve, we were lucky enough to see a
couple of Red Squirrels, with almost white bushy tails, leaping with great
agility between the trees, while a visit to the nearby sloblands gave very
close views of handsome Tree Sparrows.
With news of a long staying
Short-billed Dowitcher on Lady's Island Lake, we made repeated visits in
search of this elusive vagrant American wader, without a trace of it,
though there was always plenty else to see including Little Egret,
Greenshank, and lovely rusty red Black-tailed Godwits. This large
freshwater lake adjacent to the sea is also a top site for Terns. On one
sand bar we had excellent scope views of the rare Roseate Tern amongst a
mixed flock of Terns, including Common, Arctic, Sandwich and a single
Little Tern. Nearby Tacumshin Lake provided Grey Plover, a couple of Knot
still in red breeding plumage and also very lucky views of a patrolling
male Marsh Harrier, which is quite a rarity in Ireland. After a delicious
seafood chowder in the quaint old Lobster Pot Inn, reminiscent of a south
Devon smugglers' pub, a visit to a different side of Tacumshin Lake added
Skylark, Stonechat, Wheatear and Raven to our list.
Today we were due to leave
Wexford. Not having that blasted Dowitcher in the bag, we decided to make
one last ditch effort early before breakfast. Panning the scope from the
shrine at Lady's Island at 6.20 am, the first bird sighted was a pale
fronted dumpy wader about the size of a Redshank with a very long straight
bill. Obviously not European, I stepped back in delighted amazement and
announced "I've got it", but by the time the next viewer was at
the scope the bird had flown and disappeared, leaving the nightmare
scenario of missing this mega rarity right before our eyes. A frantic
panic stricken search ensued before we relocated the cursed bird on the
far shore. As we tried to make out its features, it again flew, but this
time to the near shore just in front of us. At last we had found it and
showing beautifully. With a beak like that, it really should be called
Long-billed Dowitcher, while the long-billed species should be the Extra
Long-billed Dowitcher!
Breaking the journey
westward, we stopped off at estuaries near Ballycotton and Clonakilty,
where David spotted a Kingfisher which most of us missed. Now in County
Cork, we parked our vehicle in Baltimore and boarded the ferry to Cape
Clear Island, where the smooth crossing allowed good views of Black
Guillemot and a Peregrine, mantling its unfortunate prey on the rocky
shore.
Cape Clear Island is the
most southerly point in Ireland, bar the Fastnet Rock, visible four miles
out to sea. Such a marine location makes the island a mecca for
seawatchers and a great launch for pelagic trips. We were now in the
company of our skipper Michael and observatory warden Steve, who kindly
offered his expert services as lookout and chum thrower. A mile and a half
out the weather was calm and warm enough for just a pullover, great
conditions for seabird spotting. The fishy chum soon began to work its
magic as masses of seabirds started appearing as if from nowhere. Soon we
had an escort of Fulmars plus Herring, Lesser and mighty Great Black
Backed Gulls, with majestic Gannets gliding just above our heads, close
enough to see their blue eyes, and occasionally making breathtakingly
stunning dives into the melee just behind the boat. Meanwhile tiny Storm
Petrels fluttered just above the low swell, showing off their black
plumage and white rumps at close range, as Manx Shearwaters repeatedly
flew past, fast and low, in wave after wave. Amid the frenzy of activity
we were lucky enough to pick out a lone Sooty Shearwater, all brown with
diagnostic whitish underwings, and also a single Mediterranean Shearwater,
browner above and grubby below, compared to the clean looking black and
white Manxies. This was three hours of pure exhilaration.
A final stroll around the
island added Rock Dove, meeting our 100 species target, but we weren't
finished yet. Back on the mainland we spent our final evening enjoying a
traditional musical soiree in one of the bars of the sweet little town of
Clonakilty. On the drive back to Cork next morning, one or two in the
group were lamenting not seeing the Kingfisher and thus missing one of our
ton of species. Remarkably, as we slowed the vehicle to look at a pretty
riverside scene, guess what was perched on a rock in midstream. Yes, there
sat a Kingfisher, and a collective cheer went up! Even on board the ferry
our luck continued. Scanning the Black-headed Gulls on a dockside rail
alongside, Alison spotted not one but two Mediterranean Gulls! Throughout
the long crossing back to Swansea we enjoyed the steep banking flight of
Manx Shearwaters in their hundreds.
Together we had seen 101
species. Who says there are no birds in Ireland?
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