After a bumpy touch down on the gravel runway, we quickly slowed down to the pace of island life as the one mile walk from the airfield to the observatory took two hours, with lots to see along the way. A passing Great Skua aroused mayhem, sending clouds of Common Gulls, Arctic Terns, Lapwings and Oystercatchers into a mobbing frenzy, showing just how many birds there are on North Ronaldsay at this time. On the beach near the 'Obs', we compared the teddy bear faces of the Common Seals with the long snouts of the larger Greys and watched them cavorting, splashing and swimming in the clear blue water just offshore. At the near end of the beach, dozens of waders in superb breeding plumages foraged amongst the seaweed at close range, including Redshank, Ringed Plover, Dunlin, Sanderling, Purple Sandpiper and Turnstone. This spot was also our first of many encounters with handsome Eiders and Black Guillemots.

Once welcomed into the 'Obs', we went for lunch to the Burrian Inn, Orkney's most northerly pub. Feeling full, we were scrambled into action by the exciting news of a passing pod of Killer Whales. Once found, they gave fantastically entertaining views as they sailed to and fro with tall black dorsal fins gleaming in the bright sunshine, complete with pied flanks each time they porpoised and plumes of spray from their blows.

Returning to base along the east coast, we came within spitting distance of numerous Fulmars, sitting on their single large white eggs, laid on the sand at the base of the stone wall which encircles the whole island to keep out the sheep! North Ronaldsay sheep are a lean and tenacious breed, which thrives on seaweed, eagerly sought at low tide by paddling out to the farthest rocks alongside hauled out seals. Sheep and seals make a bizarre combination. During this afternoon we also spotted our first Hooded Crows, Ravens and Arctic Skuas, which have a much sleeker more elegant outline than the Bonxie. An after dinner stroll added Goldeneye and Black-tailed Godwit to our day list of 47 species. By 10pm it was still light enough for birding and the quarrelsome Arctic Tern colony next to the 'Obs' was as lively as ever.

Today the Old Beacon beckoned, so we packed our lunches and set out to walk the entire length of North Ronaldsay, from the 'Obs' on the south west tip to the north east point of Dennis Head. Wall to wall sunshine and an all day blue sky enhanced the meadows to perfection, some decorated with a carpet of brilliant yellow Dandelions, others white as snow with Daisies. The air was filled with the screaming of a myriad Arctic Terns, the burbling trill of paragliding Curlews, the shrill piping of excitable Oystercatchers, the "pee-wit" of Lapwings and the joyful song flights of Skylarks and parachuting Meadow Pipits. With migrants in short supply, due to the lack of easterlies, we made do with Chiffchaff and Collared Dove in the surgery garden, while lovely pink flushed Linnets seemed to be everywhere. Off the north coast, lines of Kittiwakes and Guillemots sailed across the heavy swell, which frequently batters this Orcadian outpost. On the return route we almost overlooked a super Whooper, which was a very nice unexpected bonus, followed by a black-bellied Golden Plover, which flew over while calling, and almost back at the 'Obs', a Snipe displayed above our heads, with a clearly audible whirring sound on each dive as the air vibrated through outspread tail feathers. He ended the energetic live performance with a song from his outsized beak while perched on a fence post at incredibly close range, narrowly pipping the Whooper swan for my bird of the day.

After two wonderful days on North Ronaldsay, it was time to return to Kirkwall and rejoin Alison with a minibus ready to explore the 'mainland'. Leaving Kirkwall, we noticed a trio of Long-tailed Ducks on the boating pool on the edge of town, presumably held up from migrating back to Iceland or Scandinavia by the strong north wind. Next came a visit to the Neolithic tomb of Maes Howe with its masonry bearing later norse inscriptions and remarkable rocking stone door.
Approaching the Ring of Brodgar along a Primrose peppered causeway between Lochs Harray and Stenness, we had to stop for a small raft of Scaup close to the shore, sleeping and bobbing on the waves as if waiting, like the Long-tailed Ducks back in Kirkwall, for the strong northerly wind to subside. With the bottle green heads of the drakes shining in the bright sun, we realized that there was also a male Common Scoter amongst them, fast asleep with his beak firmly tucked inside his black back feathers. So far today, the cold windy weather and sightings like Long-tailed Duck, Scaup and Common Scoter had induced a decidedly wintry feel, but then a lone Black Swan amongst all the Mutes seemed even more exotic and incongruous.

After a pub lunch we visited Cottascarth, an RSPB reserve, which had previously always produced Hen Harriers, but it wasn't until we were back on the road that we spotted our first one, a female, patrolling rough ground to our right. Then she crossed the road ahead of our vehicle and drifted away to our left. Up at Birgar Hill, the small pool in front of the hide had five Red-throated Divers, which were close enough to give marvelous views of their blood red throat patches and steel grey heads. From the same hide we watched a male Hen Harrier float across the distant hillside and then back outside a pair of Ringed Plovers stood guard over three fluffy ball chicks which wandered around like little clockwork toys. Next we crossed Birsay Moors, dotted with dozens of Greylags, Common Gulls and Arctic Skuas. Notable sightings from this lonely stretch of road included a smart male Stonechat, a Red Grouse and both cock and hen Hen Harriers, being harried by Common Gulls and Arctic Skuas.

Next day with the north wind still on full throttle, we passed the Scaup raft again in the same place and the Scoter was still fast asleep! We spent the morning at the amazing stone age village of Skara Brae and then caught the afternoon ferry to Papa Westray. The journey gave grandstand views of all the Orcadian cliff nesting species, including Gannets gliding majestically alongside the vessel. The final approach to Papa Westray was particularly exciting as the ferry pitched deeply into the heavy swell sending up a shower of spray each time the bow hit the waves.

We set out on a full day's exploration of the north half of Papa Westray on foot and had not gone far when a Corncrake called its rasping "crex crex" opposite the post office! The strong wind however was not conducive to spotting such an elusive bird but we had better luck with the Sandwich Terns near the children's playing field. The North Wick beach was crawling with Turnstone, Sanderling but particularly Dunlin, and as we watched, dozens of the Dunlin came scurrying ever closer as they foraged for food in the beached seaweed. Eventually they came to within just a few yards, whereas a nearby Whooper quickly took flight as we approached. After a picnic in the shelter of ancient stone walled enclosures known locally as Quoys, surrounded by the harsh chirps of nestling Starlings, we arrived at the maritime heath of the North Hill RSPB reserve, where our devout group fell to its knees in adoration of the tiny purple flowers of the rare Scottish Primrose. On the low cliffs of Fowl Craig, excellent views of nesting Fulmars, Kittwakes and auks included a nice juxtaposition of Razorbill and Guillemot, a good opportunity to compare their features. We also picked out a few 'spectacled' individuals among the close packed rows of Guillemots. Up on the hill, mixed pairs of light and dark phase Arctic Skuas posed for our scopes in between frantic aerobatic chases with the Arctic Terns, while the Great Skuas seemed more interested in chasing each other as they firmed up their pair bonds. And so, back to Beltane House for another excellent meal.

It was the first of June, but who would have believed it from the weather, thick low cloud, strong wind and persistent drizzle. This was the bad news for the next two days but the show went on so we boarded the small ferry across to Westray, where a taxi collected us from the pier and took us most of the way up to the lighthouse at Noup Head. The cliffs here are the home of Orkney's largest seabird 'city' and are stacked high with thousands of Guillemots and Kittiwakes, which drifted along the cliff top in a seemingly endless stream. As well as a few nesting Gannets, we enjoyed lovely close views of Puffins standing on the cliff top. Back in Pierowall, we had lunch in the hotel bar next to a blazing log fire!

Sadly it was time to say farewell to the Beltane House staff and their superb meals and service. A final stroll around the south half of the island again found the Corncrake calling outside the post office but it was still too wet and windy to pinpoint this 'bogey bird'. On the Loch of Saint Tredwell, at least thirty Red-breasted Mergansers had taken shelter from the windy sea, while a Whooper Swan had teamed up with a Mute for company. Out in the bay, two Great Northern Divers gave good views, but the best view came from an individual in full summer plumage just fifty yards from the ferry as we sailed back to Kirkwall. Back on the boating pool a Long-tailed Drake, resplendent in black and tan summer plumage, was still present and set a new record for closest ever view of this species.

At last the sun came out again for our visit to the RSPB Loons reserve. It was awash with golden Kingcups and alive with the music of Curlew and Redshank. We also added Sedge Warbler to our list here. With the far off hills of Hoy draped in cloud, a walk along the Thrift and Squill covered cliff tops of Marwick Head produced very good views of Rock Pipit and Wheatear, and a Raven on the tower as well as the usual suspects on the ledges and out to sea. After a pub lunch spent watching Mergansers on the loch outside the window, followed by a nice walk near Brough Head with another Great Northern Diver offshore, we returned to Birsay Moors in the hope of Short-eared Owl. Scanning the moors from afar we spotted a very distant hunting owl but lost it and so drove on hoping to track it down. Once in the likely area, we soon had this beautiful owl in the scope as it perched on a post and stared at us with big yellow eyes. Remarkably from the same spot we also added Sand Martin to the list and then Sheila spotted a Whimbrel bathing just upstream of the bridge we were watching from. Having searched all week for this particular wader we were now enjoying unbeatable views in our scopes, so well done Sheila.

For our final morning we took one last look at our friend the Long-tailed Drake before visiting Mull Head. It was unusually windless and so the sea was totally calm and the horizon shrouded by mist. In a sink hole known as The Gloup, echoing to the song of a Wren, a sitting Black Guillemot showed off its bright red webbed feet. We wondered whether it accessed the sea via the tunnel or over the top and eventually it took the tunnel option. Towards the head, the sun broke through and a group of Shags standing on rocks below showed just how attractive they really are when seen in good light, with their emerald eyes, crests and glossy bottle green plumage. On the heathery headland a number of Twite made tantalizing appearances but never settled long enough for more than brief glimpses. Following an excellent lunch in the Quoyburray Inn, we drove across the Churchill Barriers, stopping at the fabulous little Italian Chapel on Lamb Holm, where we also spotted yet another Great Northern Diver close inshore.

After seven islands, about 35 miles of walking and 86 species seen, we had truly sampled the many delights of Orkney island life.

Christopher Hall www.newhorizonsonline.co.uk